Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty
Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty In Review
The Met Gala was on Monday, and it was certainly one for the books. When the theme was announced a few months ago, I was not sure what to expect when it came to the day of show. Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty, a night dedicated to one of the most prolific, celebrated, and controversial fashion designers of all time. Filled with his work, both drawn and sewn, the exhibit features designs from his time at brands like Fendi, Chloe, his eponymous brand Karl Lagerfeld, and of course Chanel. His life and career being vital to the fashion Industry now and in the future. Additionally, his legacy is responsible for the “revitalization” of Chanel through the 1980s and 1990s and the popularization and integration of the “Chanel Bride” as a core aspect of the house. However, not only was he an innovator and a lover of what was coming, he was also a hateful and distasteful human being. This caused intense conversation online and, in the press, with many outraged by the theme. And rightfully so, Karl was a known misogynist, anti-Semitic, fatphobic, homophobic, Islamophobic, and publicly against the “Me Too” movement. And though he said once in 2007 that it was “all an act”, there is just too much said over too long for it to be an act. In my opinion, this was not the right theme, and Anna could have chosen infinitely better. However, for the sake of this post, and for my own love for fashion, we will separate art and artist. In no way do I defend or stand for what this man did in his life, but my respect for him as an artist and creative mind, is endless. So, with all of that being said, let’s get started.
Like I said at the beginning, I was not quite sure what to expect from this year’s Co-Chairs (Penelope Cruz, Dua Lipa, Michaela Cole, and Roger Federer), and Attendees. That being said, I was not disappointed. In my opinion, this year’s theme participation was up there with the 2018 Met Gala, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination, with almost everyone on the carpet meeting the dress code. I found myself loving or wanting to wear so many of the looks, meaning now I have over 30 celebrities on my Best Dressed List. So, we’re doing things a little different this year. I have divided everything up into sections, Best Dressed Womenswear (and honorable mentions), Best Dressed Menswear, Worst Dressed, and Most on Theme. However, I am only going to delve into the Top 5 on my List for Best Dressed Womenswear and Menswear… everything else will be listed with images, and depending on the look, a blurb about why or why not I liked it. Please keep in mind that these are all my opinions and favorites of the night, and this is in no way a professional evaluation.
Best Dressed: Womenswear
The Ranking:
1. Kim Kardashian in Custom Schiaparelli
2. Nicole Kidman in Chanel Couture
3. Karlie Kloss in Custom Loewe
4. Chloe Fineman in Custom Wiederhoeft
5. Irina Shayk in Archived Yohji Yamamoto
6. Elle Fanning in Custom Vivienne Westwood
7. Kylie Jenner in Custom Jean Paul Gaultier
8. Carla Bruni in Archived Karl Lagerfeld Couture
9. Kristen Stewart in Chanel
10. Michaela Cole in Custom Schiaparelli
Kim Kardashian being my favorite look of the night was not something I ever anticipated. I mean up until me writing this Nicole Kidman was my favorite look, but there is just something about Kim’s look that I love so much, and I cannot stop thinking about it. So here she is at number one. Her look consisted of 15,000 crystals and 50,000 freshwater pearls. The look, while reminiscent of her 2007 Playboy cover, was inspired by layers of pearls and Chanel necklaces. To me, this look expressed everything that Karl stood for as an artist and designer because it was something expected and not all at the same time. Much like Karl’s time at Chanel, you knew what you were going to see, but not how you would see it. I also love how true Kim and the team at Schiaparelli stayed to her aesthetic and status within fashion, while also honoring the theme and not being over the top. Of all of Kim’s Met Gala looks, this one may be my new favorite.
Wearing the same dress from her Iconic 2004 Chanel No.5 commercial, Nicole Kidman TOOK MY BREATH AWAY in this Chanel Couture gown. While I think the celebrities that wore Chanel played it somewhat safe, I do think this dress was one that still made a statement. Maybe this is because it wasn’t what I was expecting her to wear, but something about it made perfect sense. From the subtle feather detail to the train, and of course the beading, everything about it worked. I feel like it truly did feel like watching a “Chanel Bride” closing one of Karl’s shows, and for that reason it was impossible for it to not be on theme. I also loved how she re-wore something as glamorous and famous as this dress, it opposed Karl’s distaste for Nostalgia and bringing back the old. And do not get me started on the cutesy little bow she wore in her hair… PERFECT.
In Custom Loewe by J.W. Anderson, Karlie Kloss finally broke eye contact with Camp. The sleek black dress, with tromp l’oeil design and accompanying pearl strands was inspired by a gown that Karl designed for Chanel in 1993. If we’re speaking honestly here, I would like to steal that dress from Karlie Kloss and wear it myself. Not only is Loewe one of my current favorite brands, but I LOVE how different this dress seems for them, and yet so on brand for them as well. And I think the color contrast between the black of the dress and the greenish yellow tromp l’oeil and the ivory pearls worked so well. Not to mention, her surprise baby bump! Just radiant, the dress was stunning, fit her perfectly, AND she also had a black hair bow… fabulous.
Coming in very close to Karlie’s look at number four, is Chloe Fineman in Custom Wiederhoeft. I don’t have enough time here to go deep into the brand Wiederhoeft and why you all should love it, but just know they’re amazing, and the craftmanship is always stunning. That being said, the look they created for Chloe to wear was the first look I saw of the night. And what a way to start! The subtle camp details, and the sequins instantly make it stand out as something separate from Karl or Chanel but, the simple elegance of the dress made it fit the theme effortlessly. The neckline was adorned with bundles of black rosettes that seemed to blend with the sheer black opera gloves that she wore, and the look was paired with a small cat shaped purse, lovingly called ‘Choupette’, after Karl’s beloved and rather famous feline friend. This look encompasses the modern edge that Karl brought to Chanel, while also staying true to the brands roots. Stunning and well done, I would steal this one too.
Supermodel Irina Shayk hit the carpet in a Silk, wet-looking, archival Yohji Yamamoto dress and flats. Paired with a stunning diamond choker, the understated nod to Karl’s sophisticated taste and love for interesting shapes and fabrics, the look was perfect for the event while not drawing too much attention. I loved this look for a number of reasons, the two biggest being, the subtle references to the “Chanel Bride” and the Greek themed Chanel collection for Resort 2018. I also loved the juxtaposition between Chanel’s more mid-century aesthetic and the modern look of the silk “wet dress”. While this look may not have been the most on theme compared to other looks at the event, it stole the show for me, so she rests at number five on my list. Although, I am rarely disappointed by Miss Irina.
Honorable Mentions:
11. Alexa Chung in Roisin Pierce
12. Keke Palmer in Custom Sergio Hudson
13. Gisele Bundchen in Chanel Couture
14. Penelope Cruz in Chanel
15. Anok Yai in Prabal Gurung
16. Marion Cotillard in Chanel Couture
17. Daisy Edgar Jones in Gucci
18. Mindy Kaling in Custom Simkhai
19. Olivia Rodrigo in Thom Browne
20. Maya Hawke in Prada
Best Dressed: Menswear
The Ranking:
1. Taika Waititi in Atelier Prabal Gurung
2. Alton Mason in Karl Lagerfeld
3. Brian Tyree Henry in Karl Lagerfeld
4. David Byrne in Martin Greenfield Clothiers
5. Ben Platt in Wiederhoeft
6. Robert Pattinson in Dior Men
7. Conan Gray in Balmain
8. Ke Huy Quan in Dior Men
9. Russel Westbrook in Bode
10. Jordan Roth in Schiaparelli
11. Shai Gilgeous- Alexander in Thom Browne
12. Jack Harlow in Tommy Hilfiger
Taika Waititi definitely took home the award for my favorite Menswear look of the night. Hitting the Carpet in Atelier Prabal Gurung, the long suit jacket and slacks combo made for a gorgeous and satisfying look. The colors were simple, with a pallet of slate, black, Ivory, and blush; and the two long strands of pearls that hung around his neck helped to tie everything together. I felt his look also represented the more androgynous side of Chanel, a side I don’t think is often highlighted or talked about. I felt this way about Kristen Stewarts look as well. The only difference being her suit was actually Chanel.
Next is the one true “Chanel Bride”, Alton Mason, in Karl Lagerfeld. While this look was one from Karl’s eponymous brand, it took on a striking new look in the hands of Alton and his team. Again, drawing inspiration from the more androgynous side of Chanel. I don’t have much else to say about this look because I feel like it is pretty straight forward how incredible this look is. I want to add Bryan Tyree Henry to this same section because he too wore Karl Lagerfeld. His look, however, in my eyes, was like a glimpse into what it may be like to be a Chanel groom. With the bulky cape and chunky layered necklaces, Bryan became a regal vision in black.
The lead singer of The Talking Heads rolled his way into the Met in a white, bespoke, Martin Greenfield Clothiers suit, yellow sneakers, and a bicycle. Sporting the same suit, he recently wore to the Oscars, the singer paid homage to the legendary designer by keeping it fun. While the look may not be on my list for most on theme, I admire how he stood out from the crowd. It was refreshing to see someone stepping outside of the box and being original, bringing a camp vibe to the event and playing with the seriousness of Karl’s work.
At number 5 is Ben Platt in Wiederhoeft. In a stunning, ivory tweed suit, the look paid homage to the tweed suits created by Chanel. It was interesting to see how different this Wiederhoeft look was from that of Chloe Fineman’s, and yet both reflected the wearer, the theme, and the brands so well. And again, I love how this look continued to show the androgyny of Karl’s work and the house Chanel. It is funny to see how this theme/idea is consistent throughout the men’s looks this year, makes you think about what it really means or is to be a ‘Chanel Girl’.
Most on Theme
The Ranking:
1. Teyana Taylor in Thom Browne
a. Number 1 goes to Teyana because of her dedication to the theme throughout her entire look. From the starched collar and tie, the blacked-out shades, and even the ponytail. Karl would have been honored; I think.
2. Jared Leto as Choupette in Karl Lagerfeld
a. I mean the man wore a mascot suit, made to look exactly like Karl’s cat, made by the team at his eponymous brand… how much more on theme could you be?
3. FKA Twigs in Custom Maison Margiela
a. While this look was not outright on theme, the nods to Karl’s love for construction and fabric did not go unnoticed in my eyes. I also loved how the dress kind of looked like a deconstructed suit… I think Karl would have liked how new it seemed.
4. Anne Hathaway in Atelier Versace
a. I mean… its Andy from ‘The Devil Wears Prada’… did you expect her not to nail it? The seamless combination of Chanel’s timelessness and Versace’s sex-appeal was perfect.
5. Cardi B in Chen Peng Studio
a. Her look was inspired by the Chanel Boy Bag and the ties that Karl loved. She looked comfortable and radiant, while wearing something that seemed like it would typically be outside of her comfort zone.
6. Kylie Jenner in Jean Paul Gaultier
a. Paying homage to Karl may have been the theme, but Kylie Jenner and Haider Ackerman (creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier) wanted to highlight who Karl was, personally. By making the dress a stunning and sharp red, they gave the carpet a taste of Karl’s favorite color. In addition, the slouchy blue jacket, that was actually the train of the dress, was inspired by a look worn by one of Karl’s dearest friends and colleagues, Andre Leon Talley.
The Worst Dressed
Before I start, I don’t feel like I need to explain why I chose these looks to be on my worst dressed list. Just know, it nothing personal, I just didn’t like these looks or felt like they didn’t impress. They are also in order from most tolerable to least tolerable.
The Ranking:
1. Emma Chamberlain in Miu Miu
a. I just would have liked to see something a little more wow.
2. Margot Robbie in Chanel
a. I have not seen Margot in a Chanel look that actually like in so long that I forgot what the feeling is like. She looks boring here, and the clear panel in the middle… looks cheap.
3. Billie Eilish in Simone Rocha
a. Its giving, “I wish I wore what Bella Hadid wore to the 2022 Met Gala”.
4. Margaret Qualley in Vintage Chanel
a. What is this? Homecoming?
5. Doja Cat in Custom Oscar De La Renta
a. The dress, I like. And the hood is not bad. But she lost me at the prosthetic cat nose and cat claw acrylic nails.
6. Serena Williams in Gucci
a. Cute… but safe.
7. Kerry Washington in Michael Kors
a. Listen, I love Kerry and she really is a stunning woman. But this dress looks like a two piece Prom dress that would have been worn in 2017.
8. Pete Davidson in Custom Fendi
a. Just no.
9. Jeremy Strong in Prada
a. In the wise words of my dearest Fashion Friend Joseph, “He looks like the Scooby-Doo Mystery Machine”.
10. Diane Von Furstenberg in Custom Diane Von Furstenberg
a. I love how she made this her own, I really do, AND I like how she included Karl’s name into a crossword puzzle type moment, but it just felt a little messy to me.
11. Eileen Gu in Robert Wun
a. Tell me how it is okay to wear a dress, from a murder inspired collection, to the Met Gala. I mean, the red spots are supposed to mimic BLOOD SPLATTER… celebrating a dead guy none the less.
12. Kim Petras in Marc Jacobs
a. This is one huge hot mess.
13. Yara Shahidi in Vintage Jean Paul Gaultier
a. This look actually really disappointed me because, the last few years Yara has really made the Met Gala carpet her stage and nailed the theme almost every time. This felt like a huge flop to me, and I can’t help but feel like the dress is ugly.
14. Lil Nas X in Swarovski Crystal
a. All I have to say is, if you ever find yourself being this close to naked, on the Met Gala red carpet, you might want to take a look in the mirror and do some re-evaluating.
That concludes my review of the 2023 Met Gala, Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty. I wish I had enough time, space, and energy to talk about every single look that hit the carpet, but if I did that, I would have carpel tunnel and you would be reading all day. So, if you want to dive deeper into the looks from this year, check out the Best Dressed Lists from editorials like Vogue, Harper’s Bazar, and GQ. Let me know in the comments which looks you loved, which you hated, and what you’re hoping to see next year.
- Miss O