Menswear: A Brief Review Spring/Summer 2024
The Spring/Summer 2024 season for Menswear is in full swing, and the fashion Gods have truly blessed us. Although we have yet to see what is in store for the designers showing in Florence, London, and even New York… Paris and Milan have already set the tone for the rest of the season. Suiting, miniskirts, and complex layers are all the rage, with Sophisticated Sexy as a common underlying theme throughout. Menswear is a sector of fashion that I am not often hugely invested in, but this year, a few of the designers have really caught my eye; some familiar favorites of mine and one a new obsession. Here I will break down some of the best looks, as well as the overlapping trends within the collections.
Reminiscent of the connection between country club goers and the adult film industry, ‘fashion twins’ and co-creative directors, Dean and Dan Caten wanted to illuminate the concept of raunchy quiet luxury. The show remained true to Dsquared2 origins with heavy denim use and a subtle preppy undertone, while also bringing something excitingly new to the table. There was heavy inclusion of cutout details on waistlines and tops, showing as much skin as possible, but tastefully and almost sneakily. The presence of pearls was also a standout detail, making me think of the infamous photoshoot Kim Kardashian did for Playboy in 2007. However, the pearls also played into the viral trend of “mermaid core” and what that might look like on a somewhat day-to-day basis. I also loved the overarching idea that this collection could easily be sported by groupies in the 1980s and 1990s, primarily because of the trucker hats and the use of The Rolling Stones’ Hot Lips logo.
On the complete opposite end of the spectrum was JW Anderson’s collection, full of complex knits and structural madness. However, creative director, Jonathan Anderson’s true goal was to portray movement, both in concept and execution. Each look brought about a new concept, shape, and even theme to the collection. To me this show further demonstrated the brand and Anderson’s excellence within the industry and their uncanny ability to provoke thought. His use of mixed mediums is something so special and quickly becoming a signature. The more mediums and shapes, the more movement. From head to toe, models looked almost out of place, seasonally, sporting heavy knits and many layers of fabric. But the underlying theme was not only movement, but menswear as an art form. My favorite part of the show, much like the Dsquared2 show, was the utilization of both male and female models. I think for the time this is a more effective way to show something like menswear, it keeps it fresh and fluid, ideas that are extremely prevalent in this fashion today.
Jonathan Anderson’s genius continued throughout the Loewe show/collection with obscure shapes and glitter galore. Reminiscent of 1970s business casual, the silhouettes featured in the show bent the rules of dressing for you gender, and elevating basics. I love how this collection proved the diversity of design within the brand and what their capabilities are when it comes to keeping it fresh and staying true to their origins. What stood out to me the most though, was Anderson’s strategic use of color to portray a mood. While the glitter and geometric shapes brought a sense of playfulness, the toned-down and cool colors made the collection seem easy to wear and versatile. I also love how the collection contrasted the season in which it was designed, offering chunky knits and thought-provoking outerwear as opposed to traditional spring and summer garments like shorts and sleeveless tops.
Prada also decided to change things up for their spring/summer collection. Leaving behind any pre-conceived ideas of what the ‘Prada Man’ might look like, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, introduced the new color pop, shorts wearing ‘Prada Man’. With classic silhouettes throughout, the brand began to experiment more with mixed mediums, fringe, and 3D elements. To me this collection felt like a cozy blend of what Miuccia has accomplished at Miu Miu, with a tasty Prada twist. Cargo also took the mainstage in this collection, in the form of “fishing vests”, in bright colors like cherry red and even in faux fur. Personally, I really love this new direction Prada is seemingly moving in, it’s unexpected and utterly refreshing; and yet, the classic and familiar Prada many know and love still shines through. I think this is something really hard to do with a brand with as much history as this one. But I feel like it really goes to show the strength and success behind Miuccia and Raf’s partnership.
When it comes to overlapping trends, Preppy is what comes to my immediate attention. With collared shirts throughout, each brand with their own take, it was impossible to ignore the private school flair. At Dsquared2 we got to see the dangerously sexy take on what it means to be preppy, with tailored shirts turned into mini dresses and low-slung jeans paired with a blazer… minus the shirt underneath obviously. Loewe takes second place for me regarding preppy-ness, but with a far more sophisticated perspective. Models took to the runway sporting elegant trench coats and country club knits, shades of course at the ready. And then there is Prada and JW Anderson…both pursuing the fashionable Catholic School student aesthetic but managing to do so in a more intentional and conspicuous way. Prada’s relationship with shorts was unbreakable in this collection, with 27 of the 46 looks in the show consisting of shorts and some kind of top with a collar or lapel. And at JW Anderson, the ruffled pinstripe dresses and outlandish, yet casual knits, made the collection feel like the closet of a ‘student of duty’ who lives in the most insanely preppy, golf-course community, in existence… in the best way possible. However, these were not the only designers to contribute their take on the trend. The most memorable being Valentino, Dior Men, and even Pharell Williams’ debut at Louis Vuitton. But Paul Smith, Officine Générale, Kenzo, Namesake, AND MORE, added their own twist to Prep; essentially making this menswear spring/summer season the best Gossip Girl episode ever.
Shorts were the hottest commodity this season, ranging from hidden knees long, to butt-cheeks out short. At Dsquared2 models strut their stuff (literally) in shorts that left little to the imagination, emulating 1980s gym bros. Like I previously mentioned, Prada showed a refined and business casual short, kind of giving me the vibe of cutoff slacks, with a finished hem (extremely snazzy and I need a pair). JW Anderson experimented with a variety of lengths but, the most consistent seemed to be a midi short with a sort of swim trunk silhouette. I found the style to be almost bizarre compared to the rest of the collection, but when you look at the collection as a whole instead of various individual parts, it actually works so well. I was pleasantly surprised after a second and third look at the collection. This is where Loewe stands out, while an additional 10+ high fashion brands featured shorts as one of the key components in their collections, Loewe’s collection consisted entirely of long pants. However, my favorite shorts of the season came from Maison Valentino (shocking cause I am lowkey bored of them right now… no hate), Officine Générale, and Dior Men.
While womenswear continues to dabble in the Low-Rise Renaissance, menswear is taking it back to the days of a high-waisted trouser. Loewe and Prada both experimented with a bellybutton covering rise, creating pants and shorts that Urkel would lose his mind over. Meanwhile, JW Anderson kept things sightly more casual with a mid-high rise, allowing for more breathability and room to move… continuing on their theme of movement. And though Dsquared2 opted for the low-slung baggy jean, their long inseams created the illusion of high-waisted jeans that were maybe a size or two too big. Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, and Kenzo also played into the retro trend; all clearly drawing inspiration from the fashions of the 1970s and 1980s while keeping it modern and original. I find it kind of refreshing to see more coverage within menswear collections and less in womenswear and how the two sectors are starting to truly blend the lines of what is expected for each gender.
I could honestly go on and on for days when it comes to trend spotting, pointing out all the colors and construction choices that somehow found their way into multiple collections. But if I did, I would never finish the review before the next fashion season was starting. So let me know if there were any menswear collections and trends I didn’t cover here, that stood out to you and why in the comments. Also, be sure to tell me if I should do more fashion show reviews (even though I probably will regardless) or if there are any specific collections/designers that you would like me to do a deep dive into.
I will leave you with this, runways set us up for the next year, or more, of fashion… they hold the utmost importance. So never look away, what a shame it would be to miss something spectacular.
-Miss O
